How could we possibly add to yesterday's appreciation for the soldiers of Gettysburg? Well, we got up early and continued our tour of the battlefield, this time visiting the Southern lines and monuments.

In many ways the southern monuments are more striking because there are more sculptures of those that fought, both officers and soldiers. This tends to put a human face on the battle more so than a granite pillar with names of those who died (photos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6). Also, the view of the "total" battlefield is much better from Seminary Ridge, which held the Southern line (photo 7). That tiny straight pillar to the right of center of the picture is Cemetery Ridge, where the Northern line was formed. Looking across that ¾ mile stretch of open land, with fences and roads in the way, and trying to imagine what it must have been like with cannon and artillery fire is quite moving.

The average person walks at a pace of about three miles per hour. That means to cross an open field, unimpeded, should take you close to twenty minutes, or 1/3 of an hour. But the fields around Gettysburg were farms with split rail fences, and roads sunken from erosion and the ware of wagon wheels. Now add to that explosions from cannon fire and smoke and noise, and blood from your comrade who may have just died a horrible death, and 150 years later, it becomes difficult to speculate if I would have had the courage to keep going forward in those circumstances.

There is a statue of General Robert E. Lee with his horse Traveler (photo 8) and also a monument of where he met his returning troops after Pickett's Charge (photo 9).

We finished off the tour with a stop at "Little Round Top" which was the left flank of the Northern line. It had been left undefended and when the officer sent to review those defenses realized the problem, he sent immediately for troops. They got there just in the nick of time to repel a Southern charge. During the night, the Northern troops atop the ridge were erecting makeshift stone walls and barricades, several of which can still be seen today (photos 10, 11, 12, 13) and the next day they were able to hold against Lee's charge on the flanks of the Northern line. Had the officer not gotten there when he did, had he not immediately sent for troops to man that spot, if the troops had been fifteen minutes later, there could have been a different outcome to Gettysburg. You see that over and over again here and you begin to believe that the events of history are often a matter of chance.

Taking a tour on a motorcycle can be a test of determination. Unlike a car where you park it at almost any leaning angle, put on the hand brake, and get out, a motorcycle doesn't work that way. Too much lean and the bike is unstable, park pointed at too great a down angle and you have a hard time getting the bike backed up. Then you have too remove your helmet, get the camera out of the trunk, and go and visit the attraction. Then when you come back you have to reverse the process and hope that you can get the bike easily out of the place you've parked it. After a while, if you're like me and want to get off of the bike to take pictures every ten feet, this can become a real pain in the ass. They should have a column in Cycle World about the Non-Joys of motorcycling.

We finally finished our tour and headed south. Linda saw a sign for Boyd's Bears. Boyd's Bears, my friends, is a "Teddy Bear" factory. Stuffed, cute, little teddy bears. I ride a motorcycle. I'm not gong to be caught dead at a teddy bear factory. Wrong. I've been married 37 years and my wife is on the back of this motorcycle and had been there for the last 6000 miles. I reevaluate the situation and, well, I'll let Linda tell you what happened.

Linda: As we were leaving Gettysburg all set in our minds to see the Shenandoah Mountains and get to our final nights destination, I spotted a large road sign reading "Boyd's BEAR Country". Now you have to understand, I collect (in a small way) and love Boyd's Bears. There is no way I am going to let Ed get out of town without checking this out. Getting Ed to turn around at this point was going to be tricky, so as sweetly as possible I promise him, "I'll only be 15 minutes, just to take a quick look around", astonishingly he believes me and turns the bike around and we back track one mile to what we discover, among the fields of Gettysburg is THE main distribution center for Boyd's Bears (photos 14, 15, 16). Two hours later as we are finishing up lunch, at you know where, we laugh about the 15 minute promise and head out of the store, stopping to fill out coupons for a chance to win a large Boyd's Teddy Bear and to take one last picture. (4 photos) Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get Ed to drive to Hershey, PA (50 mi.) to visit Chocolate World (Hershey's factory), maybe next year! We again head south on Hwy 15 hoping we don't get any afternoon rain showers.

We keep heading south into a emerald green world with fantastic views of valley's below and forest covered mountains stepping off into the sunset above (photos 17 & 18). This is what I've waited to see. This is not actually the Blue Ridge Parkway; it's the Skyline Drive through the Shenandoah National Park. Still, it's a damn good start and I snap a couple of pictures to remember the day. Good thing I did, because tomorrow would be far different than today.

We pulled off the Skyline and got a room at the Big Meadows Lodge. Now "Lodge" is a French word which means, "Very old building with no television and no phone to be rented at a price similar to a fine motel in the city." In addition, they are usually located in the woods, and oftentimes have insects that would be gladly poisoned by any self-respecting owner of a motel.

It was a nice room with a nice restaurant and then Linda finished the day with pictures of the sunset (photos 19 & 20).

A suggestion to all of you who ride. You've got to ride in Pennsylvania and you've got to stop at Gettysburg, and if you have the time, keep going to the Blue Ridge Parkway. That's my riding suggestion for today.